Feature articles, January 2018

• Fearless and Fresh, an in-depth look at the woman who has done it all by Jordana Katz
• This one’s for My Peers Working Retail by Venessa Bandera
• Consignment Isn’t a Bad Word by Celeste Kierans
• GBC Fashion Student takes Personal Brand to the Next Level by Adam Gillani

• (backup) 5 The Trend Setter of the New Trend (TNT) by Jade Assaraf

REVIEWS

• Dior Dreamworld on Display by Shelby Furber
• Dior review by Celeste Kierans
• Book review by Jacob Yan

GEORGE IN THE CITY

• What I’ve learned from GBC (Shaelyn Meier) by Thamyres Azevedo

 BACK PAGE

• Strike comments by Venessa Bandera & Jordana Katz

GBC Fashion Student takes Personal Brand to Next Level

   Meet Clayson Fletcher, a former George Brown College fashion student takes his passion and drive to the next level in creating his dreams with his clothing company Nova Supply Co. Clayson Fletcher refers to himself as a creator instead of designer. He has been working on his cut and sew brand for over 6 years now. What really drove him to create his own clothes was the position he was in when he was young. “I was always a big kid in school, I was always into fashion but couldn’t wear the clothes I wanted. That’s when I became a crafty creative kid. I dug up my mom’s old sewing machine, fixed it and got straight into studying fashion and sewing. This is where everything started changing. I started to become obsessed with it. I wouldn’t just make one shirt, but that one shirt in 50 different colours. Clayson wants his brand to be on a global scale, accessible worldwide to everyone anywhere and anytime. He wants to create collectives where like-minded people can come together and create, share, and achieve similar visions and goals. “The brand itself I want it to be worldwide and accessible. I want workshops where kids just like myself can come and create together, in a soft and peaceful environment. In terms of myself as the designer, I want to be the greatest to ever live. What separates Nova from other brands out there is that everything is made to order, it’s a very high level of personalization for each customer which is not what a lot of brands do. By offering personalization you create a connection with the customers and they more than likely will feel comfortable to purchase from you again and again. Not only that but you are able to appreciate the hard work that went into the product at the end of the day. “It’s all handmade, packaged, sourced and patterned by me. I only use the softest organic fabrics from Canada and Japan. I want to give the world a piece of me and my perspective.” He wants everyone to experience what he has to offer. As being a creator you always find different mediums of inspiration. You can find inspiration in almost anything and anywhere which is why it is such a huge aspect of creation. One big inspiration for Clayson Fletcher is a well-known music artist Frank Ocean. “I can’t give away all my secrets for inspiration but Frank Ocean is a huge inspiration for me. The way he created and used the font Blonde, and Endless to the way. His whole artistry, the mystery of his work and his own influences, it shows me that you can express yourself without telling people what your feeling. I built a collection solely based on his songs.” Getting your clothes into stores is one of the big goals that any designer would want. You would want your work to be recognized and appreciated by a wide variety of people. “I would love to be in a store that is under the radar. Something like the store Neighbor.” Which is a newer and smaller independent menswear boutique just outside of Yorkville. “My clothing would be a like a hidden gem rather than being at an oversaturated retailer. Creating a brand can come with lots of challenges and obstacles starting can be one of the hardest. “It’s always starting, there’s something about a blank canvas and raw materials that has been yet to use that is very intimating. But once that first ink or cut happens, a snow ball effect occurs. Ten years down the road Clayson Fletcher sees himself in a positive state. “Happy, in love with someone doing something creative. Hosting clothing conversion for kids who just want to create but don’t know how to. As consumers we all have our favourite fabrics we love to wear and designers also have their favourites. “18oz Organic cotton canvas and wool! At times Silk but it is very difficult to sew haha.” Clayson wants to make a trip to Tokyo someday. He wants to explore what it’s like over there as it is very different and diverse. “Tokyo, I want to feel the aura that they have up there, and scope the fashion scene because it’s completely different that here in Canada and the United States. The Nova Supply brand has recently made some public magazine press. Their biggest article was one where they were featured on HighSnobiety. One if the biggest magazine platforms for fashion, music and lifestyle. Clayson hopes to achieve much more in the future and change the world with his brand. The next upcoming months will consist of fresh, new and intriguing products for the brand. Expanding more into women’s wear, the brand is looking to make a huge impact in the Toronto fashion scene in 2018. 

New Technology and the Fashion Industry

Throughout the last few years’ new technology has had a direct approach on how the Fashion Industry operates. Companies have had to adjust strategies to meet the demand of a new type of consumer. Someone who wants products fast and with a minimum amount of effort required. Due to the rise of Fast fashion, many customers want to be able to see what is trending, be able to purchase these styles and then prepare for the upcoming season.  “New” technology has changed the fashion industry for the better (in consumer’s eyes) as there are many options available to consumers from different backgrounds (geographical, economical). New technology is not only limited to the customer shopping experience, but how the clothes are made as well.  

Consumers are more aware of ethical issues, due to the transparency of the internet. Consumers are able to do their research about brands before purchasing, and there is a much needed emphasises on ethical manufacturing. An example is the Zara controversy where customers found notes in clothing, describing terrible work conditions. Consumers have a wide array of choices when it comes to retailers so companies have to protect their public image more than ever, or consumers will move on quickly.

In a world where technology is the spine of society, fashion has become more accessible and community based than ever. According to Vice President of Garrison Essentials Anthony Iammarino, “We've effectively democratized the way in which style (and trends) are consumed (and influenced).  Instagram, snapchat etc.  These new communication channels have changed the game for brands and consumers.  Brands have a direct, immediate channel to their audience.  Consumers have a channel to impart change, feedback and a chance to be a part of the process”.  This community presence has also created a big market for online reselling. Platforms such as Grailed and Depop have given consumers the opportunity to find both high end and mass marketed products for much under retail pricing. These companies make buying products simple as buyers can quickly communicate with sellers all around the world, with rating systems and anti fraud systems in place for a smooth experience.

In terms of social media, many consumers are influenced by what they see on popular platforms such as Instagram and Pinterest. Consumers look towards social media influencers for outfit inspirations and in deciding which brands are worth purchasing. It is important for brands to have an impactful online presence to support their brick and mortar presence.  A great example of a company who embraced social media early is English fashion house Burberry. They have implemented a See now, buy now model which abandons the traditional roll out methods of big fashion houses, which would give consumers pre collections, fashion shows showcasing future collections etc. The see now, buy now model unveils these Luxury collections and makes them available to consumers right away, by using social media. There is also an option to purchase items seen on a runway show while it is going on. 

The heavy presence of social media is also a way for new fashion companies to make an impact on the fashion scene. This new approach on business gives new Fashion start-up companies a different and cost effective way to promote themselves. Traditionally, a company would have to come up with an entire line of products then head directly into Brick and Mortar, whereas the internet has given modern companies the option to take a “Lean business approach”. This style describes a business model that shows potential consumers your product with room to pivot based on their responses. 

The influence of “New” technology has also changed consumer shopping habits. It has become very convenience based as consumers do not want to leave their house in order to shop. Fashion companies need to have a strong e commerce presence complete with the right website layout, return policies and garment presentation to make this experience seamless for their customers. These Consumers have become savvier shoppers and have been able to discover new brands through the internet and how to navigate through sale periods. A great example of a company making convenience of its shoppers a priority is online shopping assistant stitch fix. The company uses online algorithms to define individual customer needs and preferences something that was impossible previously at traditional bricks and mortar retail. This technology essentially gives shoppers an online personal stylist, who will not pressure them to buy and, showcases different brands right to their front door. Another website is Shoptagr, which notifies customers when specific items they are looking at go on sale. 

  Social media powerhouses such as Instagram and Facebook are also using algorithms to track consumer shopping habits, as ads will appear on a consumers feed based on what they have been looking at online. When asked which company is using new technology to their advantage, Anthony responds “Of course, you can't mention tech or fashion today without mentioning that big grizzly bear Amazon.  Anything Amazon (which I consider every bit a tech company as a retailer) does as a company is something we need to watch and is influencing decision making every day in apparel and commerce in general. Beyond that, from a pure play technology standpoint the rise of AI will be interesting to the future of our industry.  The use of robots for logistics, shipping etc.  Will be compelling to see how it all unfolds.  Rest assured, I am watching closely. 

Other than the online shopping experience, new technology is also going to change the Brick and Mortar shopping experience as well. An example is the digital change room and interactive mirrors showcased at the Rebecca Minkoff and EBay popup event.  This technology will allow customers to be more self sufficient in physical stores, as they can see how specific outfits would look like through hologram technology as well as order their sizes which will be brought to them.

New technology is also affecting the manufacturing process of garments, as new technology such as 3D printing is starting to be involved. Many machines have become automatic and soon the workforce will not require human workers.

This one’s for, My Peers Working Retail: Escaping the Stigma: You Can Be Successful and Happy Working Retail.

That’s the goal, isn’t it? success and happiness; having a job that is gratifying in all aspects. For some, working retail provides that gratification, but the rest of society has a hard time believing that one can be successful and happy in such an industry. I have worked in retail for a few different companies and from personal experiences, I have seen it all, the good: the bad and the downright ugly. Starting as a sales associate for a small mom-and-pop clothing store seven years ago has led me to work for one of Canada’s top luxury retailers. 

When I had decided that this was the field I wanted to build my career in, the reactions were usually, all the same: squinted eyes, a slightly tilted head, sincere look of confusion followed by one of two responses: “Are you sure this what you want to do?” “Don’t you think you have more to offer than just working retail?” Those were the moments that forced me to accept that the stigma is present and it does not look like it is going to be broken anytime soon. But like always, I am here, along with someone who is such an inspiration to me; Rita Stillo, General Manager for Gucci at Holt Renfrew Bloor Street to provide you with guidance and reassurance that retail is a thriving career choice, which will lead you to success and happiness.

It is crucial to address the issues and understand why there is such a stigma. Besides the personal jabs I have taken about my commitment to retail I wanted a closer look at what societies views are on the industry and those of us who are apparently “suffering.” My search began on the World Wide Web to see exactly what entitled arrogance was circulating towards people in retail. Every article during my search was closely linked with negative presumptions as to why retail could not provide you with a successful career. I stumbled across articles titles like, “ The 30 Worst Things about Working Retail”, “13 Things no one understands About Retail”, “25 Reasons why you shouldn’t be Working Retail” The negativity is so real! Yes, the facts are true: retail hours are long; most of them spent on your feet running around, and dedicating yourself to providing the best customer service all day long can be exhausting, but the fact of the matter is retail plays a prosperous role in the economy. Consumer spending is beneficial to the economy; the more the consumer is willing to spend the better sustained the economy will be, and that begins with a small interaction between customer and associate. Not to mention it is one of the few industries that provides countless jobs and is evergrowing. We acknowledge that those who work in retail are not paving the way to solving world hunger, but our impact is nothing to shy away from. Retail workers, assist in the fluctuation of the economy every single day and that alone is something to be proud of.

I had the pleasure of sitting down with one of retail’s finest, Rita Stillo, General Manager of Gucci inside Holt Renfrew Bloor Street where we discussed all things about the industry. During our time together we honed in on the reality of working retail both positive and negative. “The relationships I’ve built over the years is also a huge positive aspect, some of the customers I was serving when I started out in beauty still shop with me today at Gucci.” She then continued to explain that the only negativity she faces is the term “real job”. “I think the worst thing about working retail is that other people have this preconceived notion that you couldn’t find other work or a “real job” so you decided to work retail. People often forget that you can be extremely successful in retail.”

The question we have been hoping to answer all along is how do we escape the stigma of working retail? How do we inflict success and happiness while trying to be respected by society? By the end of the interview, Rita and I were able to agree that success in this industry stems from patience. We are told that success is a virtue and just as in any other career, the growth in retail takes time. One must be patient and earn their stripes to climb the ladder.

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In contrast to all of this negativity, there are many pros to having a career in retail (not that I am trying to sell you on anything). For starters, you have full career control: you have the power to begin at entry level and work with mentors who can help you grow into the next steps in your career within months. There is constant room for growth and countless roles that you can obtain, given the right guidance. Since you will encounter hundreds of people a day its very important to make sure that you are in fact a people person, change career paths immediately if you struggle prioritizing the needs of others. Being genuine and passionate will take you places in retail; if you build strong relationships with your customer’s the possibilities to network are endless.  Most importantly, you are a part of a community that is encompassed by fashion, leadership and the opportunity to create an impact. To have a career in retail you are in the best position possible, your career is your own, and you can develop on your terms.

Consignment Isn’t a Bad Word – an interview with Ashley Horowitz

With rising costs associated with designer labels, and the fast fashion industry today how are fashionistas able to keep up? The answer is one simple word: Consignment. This age-old industry isn’t what it used to be – stifling through musty shops where you might be lucky to find one gem in the whole store – now in the digital age we are connected with so many outputs for sellers and buyers alike. I had the pleasure of sitting down with one of the Canadian pioneers in the online consignment field Ashley Horowitz Creator of Suite Adore.

Starting out in the advertising industry in Vancouver, BC Ashley found herself moving for years for her career. Once she and her husband settled down in Toronto she left advertising to focus on being a mother. “I faced a dilemma many women who have been out of the workforce for some time and wanting something with the flexibility I felt advertising was great, but I had done my time,” Ashley said. 

            Ashley began Suite Adore with her eBay store and started by selling her own pieces – testing this new medium experimentally. Word spread through friends and family and suddenly Ashley found the concept just built from there.

            Being already familiar with some American designer consignment websites – like Snob Swap and The Real Real – Ashley found in the years leading up to starting Suite Adore that there was an untapped market for the online consignment shop in Canada.  

            Today she facilitates sales for a number of consignee’s sharing the profits on a 40:60 split – 60% going to the consignee. All her products are locally sourced in Canada, despite a number of her clients being American.

From a young age, Ashley always loved fashion, drawing her style from Phoebe Philo, the current creative director with Céline Paris, and favouring classic pieces with clean lines occasionally adding that pop of contemporary.

“I have the luxury of curating, in that manner I can select what I want to feature in my marketplace.” Having done this for the past few years Ashley has become prolific in choosing pieces she knows will sell. “I am surprised on a daily basis,” she laughed “that some beautiful pieces are still sitting and something’s sell where I did not know that they would be such a hot item.” 

Ashley offers her clients many luxuries of selling with her. Suite Adore will pick up the items from the consignee’s houses at their convenience. This customer service sets Suite Adore apart from the rest.

Since Suite Adore began taking off Ashley has been told time and time again how wonderful the products she sells are: “People come into my Pop-ups and say ‘Wow, this was pre-owned?’” This speaks too her meticulous eye for details and her ability to spot a good find.

           

Suite Adore, though mainly online, currently holds 2-4 Pop-ups annually – one per season – featuring her favourite pieces. “People usually tell me that when they walk into a consignment store it can feel like a Winners, where it is very overwhelming and you cant focus on anything.” Unlike her in-store competition, she does not overwhelm the customer, choosing her feature wall carefully.

            As word spreads locally about her consignment shop, Ashley receives emails inquiring towards private events and personal shopping afternoons where she turns her living room into a mini boutique. “My husband wants to do something with our front room, I keep putting him off” she laughs, “It makes such a nice showroom.” Pulling pieces tailored to each client, it is like having a personal shopper for consignment.

            Like many consignment shoppers, authenticity comes into question. I like many have found people trying to masquerade a bags or clothing as authentic when it was not. This is a fear of many people – especially when buying online not from the designer but from a second-hand distributor “Authenticity is huge concern and priority of my customers. I get asked that question all the time, I personally have never come across one counterfeit item (…) I usually have a sense of too where these people might be shopping. My team and I have become versed in authenticating. There is no sort of school for authenticating.” If she ever finds herself questioning the authentic nature of a product her consignee is trying to have her sell Ashley will inquire to a third party authenticator and that person will inspect it and give her a certificate of authenticity.

           

            As more and more fashionistas find themselves shopping online, as opposed to in brick and mortar alternatives they can take a breathe of relief knowing that there are companies like Suite Adore out there to help with their consignment needs. Ashley will soon move into men’s clothing consignment.

            Visit and support Ashley by going to https://suiteadore.com/ following her on instagram @suiteadore and keep an ear out for her next pop-up set for early 2018.